putting out the pineapple

judging from its generous visa options, accessible national parks, and vast and (mostly) affordable transportation and accommodation networks, new zealand is among the most tourist-friendly countries in the world. but over the past 7 months, we've been tracking the progress of a debate that seems to signal that backpackers are wearing out their welcome. i should clarify that i'm talking about backpackers in a very loose sense here, referring to on-the-cheap travellers in general rather than serious backcountry hikers. every day while walking to work or the supermarket or the bank we watch these travellers, weighted down with heavy packs on their backs and miscellaneous smaller bags dangling from their arms, dragging themselves from the bus stop to their hostel and think, "we're so glad that's not us anymore". it's really an exhausting lifestyle. i commented to bryan a few days ago that we don't see anywhere near the number of backpackers at home, but before i even finished my sentence i remembered that we live in minneapolis - middle of the country, far north, seven hours' drive from chicago...hardly a backpacker destination, and definitely not a place that just happens to be "on the way" to anywhere.

so the problem that has new zealanders up in arms about overseas visitors stems from the large number of "freedom campers", travellers who sleep in rented or purchased campervans or converted vans in locations that are not established campsites. while in almost all cases a driver can find a public or private campground within an hour's drive in which to dump their waste, connect to water and power sources, and take advantage of shower and toilet facilities, frugal backpackers have increasingly ignored these options in favor of free and secluded spots wherever they might be found, even if it means a busy city street in central christchurch. these side-of-the-road sites, not being intended for camping, don't offer toilets or trash cans, and locals who find themselves stepping into piles of human excrement or picking up campers' litter in city parks are none too happy about the issue. one newspaper article that i stumbled across is headlined "they should be shot!", a direct quote from an obviously enraged city council member about the issue.

so what to do? the problem is being addressed differently in each region and each city, meaning that visitors may soon have to update themselves on local freedom camping regulations every time they visit a new area, which doesn't seem like a very user-friendly solution. some groups are targeting the rental companies that provide the vehicles in the first place, requiring self-contained toilets in all vans; others are zealously erecting signs in newly-designated "no camping" spots, and others are launching campaigns intended to teach tourists freedom camping etiquette. i don't know what will work in the end, but as an environmentally responsible visitor i sure hope they come to some solution, lest my fellow tourists embitter this friendly nation.

if it were up to me, i'd ignore the toilet issue and target the ugly graffiti designs that so obnoxiously decorate the vans of the major rental companies.

-rachel